Saturday, December 19, 2009

Possible fix: Dell Inspiron 1525 won’t power on

Update 12/20/2009: My stepmom is continuing to have the same problem with her laptop, so apparently the possible solution outlined below is not a "real" solution. (She ended up calling Dell tech support and they're going to replace her machine's motherboard.) Still, leaving this post here on the off chance that it might prove helpful to someone.


My Dad and Stepmom came to visit my house for the weekend this weekend.  My stepmom tried to power on her laptop, a Dell Inspiron 1525, to finish up some work; however, the machine wouldn’t power on.  All of the power LED lights on the bottom-left corner of the machine were completely dark; pressing the laptop’s power button had no visible effect at all.

We tried, without success:

  • Reseating the battery (removing and replacing it)
  • Plugging in the AC power
  • Removing the battery, but leaving the AC power plugged in

None of these steps helped; after trying each step, pressing the laptop’s power button had no visible effect, and all of the LED lights on the machine stayed dark.

At this point, I was just about ready to give up and punt the problem to Dell repair (as the machine was still under warranty), but I tried one more thing: I (1) disconnected the AC power (for safety); (2) removed the battery; (3) cleaned/polished the metal contacts both on the battery, and on the laptop itself where the battery connects to the laptop; (4) and then replaced the battery.

After doing this, upon pressing the power button once again, the machine powered on!  The LED lights at the bottom-left came on as normal, and the machine proceeded to boot into Windows.

The machine did power off without warning once during the evening while my stepmom was using it, so the problem apparently isn’t completely resolved.  I did just use my sweater to clean the power contacts on the battery and the laptop; if the connection between the battery and the laptop wasn’t actually the problem -- and I’m not convinced that it was the problem, but the symptoms do seem to be consistent with an issue related to the power supply – then maybe using a better method of cleaning the contacts would yield better results.

In the meantime, though, I thought I would post this, as I didn’t come across this solution in the course of my Googling for inspiron won’t power on – although I did come across many forum posts from users looking for a solution to a problem with this same set of symptoms.

If anyone does give this solution a try, and is successful, please leave a comment to let me and others know!

Thursday, December 17, 2009

Fix: Excel VBA “User-defined type not defined”: DataObject

Problem

An Excel VBA subroutine that involves interaction with the Windows Clipboard fails to run with the error: “Compile error: User-defined type not defined.”  The line of code highlighted by Excel as being the cause of the error includes a reference to the “DataObject” object type.

Solution

(Tested on my machine with Excel 2003 SP3)

In the Microsoft Visual Basic editor:

  • Stop debugging by clicking the “Stop” button on the toolbar (if debugging isn’t already stopped).
  • Tools menu | References
  • In the list of available references, find “Microsoft Forms 2.0 Object Library”, check it, and click OK.  (For me, this was the 2nd unchecked item from the top of the list; it wasn’t sorted alphabetically in the list like most of the rest of the listed items.)
  • Run the macro again.

That’s it!  Hope this helps!

Wednesday, December 09, 2009

Going cheap on services… and liking it!

My family and I moved into a new home south of Grand Rapids in western Michigan over the summer.  Since living here, we’ve made a conscious effort to limit the monthly cost of our “big four” services: Cell phones, “land line” phone line, broadband Internet, and TV.  This is how we’re doing currently:

Service Monthly Cost
Cell phones (2) $16.67
Phone (land line) $0.00
Broadband Internet $19.95
HDTV $0.00
Monthly Total (all services) $36.62
Annual Total (all services) $439.40

So: A land line phone, 2 cell phones, Internet service, and HDTV for less than $40/month; not bad!  Read on for the details.

Cell Phones

My wife Melissa and I both carry cell phones.  Typical month-to-month voice plans run $70 and up for a 2-line “family plan,” but for over a year now, we’ve avoid that cost by using pre-paid plans.  At the time that we dropped our prior month-to-month plan, Melissa did some research on where we could get the most bang for our buck with a pre-paid plan.

We landed on a plan from Alltel offering $0.15/minute calls with no other fees, and prepaid minutes good for a full 365 days when the minutes are purchased in increments of at least $100 (per phone).  So, once per year, we drop $100 on minutes for each of our phones (so $200 total), and we’re good for another year!  It works out to a monthly cost of $100/12 = $8.33/month per phone, or a combined $16.67/month for both.

With Alltel recently having been acquired by Verizon, though, the $0.15/minute prepaid plan is unfortunately apparently no longer available for new customers.  The cheapest flat-rate prepaid plan Verizon is advertising on their site currently is a $0.25/minute plan; there’s probably another wireless provider out there with a better deal.  Fortunately for Melissa and I, though, Verizon has so far continued to honor Alltel’s $0.15/min rate for us, at least for the time being!

The only real downside to this approach has been that our $100/year per phone, with calls running $0.15/minute, buys us just 100/0.15 = 667 minutes of talking per phone – that’s only 56 minutes per month.  Limiting our cell phone use to “emergency” or other quick-duration calls, we haven’t had a problem staying under this modest limit yet, though.  (And even if we do have to buy extra minutes before an entire year has elapsed, we’re still coming out way ahead compared to a month-to-month plan.  Verizon, for one, apparently realizes this, because on their “Plans” page, virtually the entire page is dedicated to marketing their month-to-month plans, with “Prepaid Plans” showing up as just one small link in the corner.  Nice!)

Home Phone (land line)

Since we don’t use our cell phones for any “real” conversations, Melissa needs another way to call her Mom and her friends and chat!  Even though the new normal for many households is to have no land line at all and use cell phones exclusively, we’ve found that it’s working very well for us to use a VoIP solution that comes with no monthly fee at all: A device called Ooma

The first I’d heard of Ooma was when my Dad told me about it just a few months ago, shortly after my family’s move into the new house.  It’s similar to MagicJack in that it’s a “voice over IP” service that you can use “traditional” home phones with and has no ongoing monthly fee; but Ooma differs from MagicJack in that Ooma doesn’t require that the device be connected to a PC (and requires that it’s own software be running on that PC at all times for the phone to work).  Ooma instead plugs directly into a cable modem/DSL modem or router.

Ooma has a somewhat steep up-front cost; currently, it’s going for $215 on Amazon.com. However, with a $0 ongoing monthly cost for the life of the device, the break-even point comes up very quickly relative to a $35+/month traditional phone bill (about 6 months, or less) – it’s pure profit after that!

Ooma has been working really great for Melissa and I so far.  Even over our somewhat piddly 768k/384k DSL connection (more on that below), call quality on both ends is crystal clear – I’d characterize it as being as good as a traditional land line, and better than a typical cell phone – and it has yet to drop a call. 

With the Ooma device plugged directly into the DSL modem, phone calls work fine even when someone is using the Internet on the PC, since Ooma does it’s own QoS (quality-of-service) management on any devices plugged in to the network downstream of it.  I have my Ooma hub plugged directly into my DSL modem, and my router plugged into the Ooma hub (so Ooma sits between the modem and the router), and I’ve found this setup to work just fine, both for phone calls and for my PC and other Internet-connected devices.

Broadband Internet

As I mentioned earlier, I have AT&T 768k down / 384k up DSL Internet connection, for which I’m paying $19.95/month – even though I don’t have phone service through AT&T!  In many regions now, apparently, AT&T (and other DSL providers) offer what is called “dry loop” service, where you can get DSL even if you don’t have land line phone service through the same company (or any land line phone number at all). 

Somewhat like Verizon and their “Prepaid Plans,” AT&T hides their $20/month plan in the fine print at the bottom of a page on which they much more prominently offer other plans at $35/month and up.  Even the $35/month figure, though, isn’t bad compared to the price offered by the local cable monopoly, Comcast, whose most inexpensive Internet-only plan, at the time I researched Internet options for my new home, a few months ago – without also purchasing cable TV service – was $60/month!

Obviously 768k isn’t exactly blazing speed; large downloads take a while to complete, and the bandwidth isn’t sufficient for streaming high-def video (e.g. some YouTube movies).  The service has been reliable, though, and I’ve found it to work perfectly well for email, browsing the web, gaming (even with both Melissa and I playing simultaneously on separate PCs), VoIP via Ooma (as described above), and even videoconferencing via the free Google Video Chat with my Dad in Florida.  It also works for me, for large downloads, to just kick off the download before bed and pick up the file in the morning.  (Or, at least, it works well enough for me not to feel too bad about pocketing the difference of $480 that I saved at the end of the year by not going with the faster Comcast service!)

HDTV

My family just last week, finally, joined the ranks of the HD-enabled: We picked up a 32-inch 720p HDTV.  Previously, the only TV we had in the house was an old “analog” TV that couldn’t receive TV signals, and unfortunately I didn’t jump on the deal to pick up one of the U.S. government digital converter box coupons – now unavailable – that were being passed out for free before the U.S. digital TV transition back in June.  So, we’ve had no TV at all since moving into our the new house earlier this year.  (Admittedly, this was more a burden on the rest of the family than on me, since I tend to spend my free time on the PC, playing games, or reading, rather than in front of the TV.)

Now that we have a TV capable of receiving digital over-the-air signals, I ordered an HDTV antenna from Amazon – an inexpensive RCA ANT1400M Flat HDTV Antenna (currently going for $25) – and it’s been working great!  After some brief fiddling with the antenna – I ended up getting the best results by propping up the flat antenna at about a 30-degree angle, rather than either leaving it flat on the tabletop, or standing it up vertically – we get NBC, CBS, FOX, and ABC, all in great-looking HD.  (We get about a dozen other digital stations, too, including some that I’d never even heard of, such as the kids’ station qubo.)  It was nice to sit and watch some football at home (in HD!) this past Sunday after getting the antenna hooked up for the first time – having the $0/month ongoing cost in the back of my mind certainly didn’t detract from the enjoyment.  :-)

So basically, I’m cheap – but I like it that way

I’ve got the four major “bundle” services running now for a combined cost of less than $40/month – but obviously with some caveats:

  • We have two cell phones – but they’re for limited/emergency use only
  • We have broadband Internet – but only 768k downstream
  • We have HDTV – but only the major networks, plus a dozen or so other random stations
  • We have home phone service - (actually, no real caveat here, it works just fine!)

I can live with those caveats, though, in light of this chart – repeated from the top of this post, but updated to include a comparison to some of the other service options I mentioned:

Service Provider Monthly Cost Provider Monthly Cost
Cell phones (2) Alltel Prepaid (grandfathered) $16.67 Verizon Family "basic" plan (cheapest advertised 2-phone plan on the Verizon site) $69.99
Phone (land line) Ooma $0.00 None ("Who needs a land line anymore?") $0.00
Broadband Internet AT&T dry loop, 768k down $19.95 Comcast Economy Internet, 1M down (cheapest advertised Internet plan; bundle with Comcast cable TV required to get rate) $24.95
HDTV Digital TV + RCA ANT1400M Antenna $0.00 Digital TV + Comcast Digital Preferred (cheapest advertised rate; non-"introductory" ongoing rate) $74.94
Monthly Total (all services)   $36.62   $169.88
Annual Total (all services)   $439.40   $2038.56
Annual Savings   $1599.16   --

So, yeah: I’m cheap, and the services I’ve got do include a few “caveats”… but that extra $1600 in my pocket at the end of every year works out to the equivalent of quite a few dinner dates out at a restaurant for Melissa and I.  :-)

Monday, November 23, 2009

My Windows 7 Install Experience

I recently installed Windows 7 Home Premium edition on my primary desktop machine at home.  Since I built the machine fairly recently (November 2008), I was confident that my hardware could handle the OS; also, I had been running 64-bit Vista, which has similar hardware requirements.  I was also curious to get a firsthand look at the Windows 7 given all of the positive buzz (particularly relative to Vista, which had comparatively negative buzz at launch).  Finally, being a PC technology enthusiast, it’s always fun to be running the “latest and greatest.”

My install experience was largely very positive.  I did run into two significant snags, however.

Snag #1 – Windows wouldn’t recognize my wireless card

I run a wireless network at home, and have my PC connected to the network over the wireless (due primarily to the fact there happens to be no phone jack to plug my DSL modem into anywhere near the PC).  The wireless card I’ve always used with this machine, and had no problems with, is a Netgear WG311v3 (an internal PCI-slot network card). 

Unfortunately, after getting Windows 7 installed, Windows wouldn’t recognize the WG311v3 card.  The problem was that Windows 7 64-bit allows the use of only signed drivers, and Netgear has not released a signed driver for this card (despite the fact that this card is still actively sold in stores, as of the time of this writing).  I was surprised by this problem, since apparently the restriction of using signed drivers only has been around in previous versions of Windows as well, and I had been using this card with no problems under Vista 64-bit – I’m still not sure at this point why this card worked for me under Vista 64-bit, but not Windows 7 64-bit. 

After fighting with this problem for 3 hours or so (trying alternative drivers, and other workarounds), I gave up: I temporarily ran a long ethernet cable across my living room to the router to allow me to get online, and I ordered an inexpensive MediaLink MWN-USB54G USB Wireless-G adapter ($30 on Amazon.com at the time of this writing) which had great reviews and was reported by multiple reviewers in their comments to work fine with Windows 7 64-bit.  When the MWN-USB54G arrived a few days later, I plugged it in, and Windows 7 recognized it immediately and I was able to get online wirelessly with no problems – no need to use the enclosed CD.

So, boo to Netgear for not releasing a signed driver for their WG311v3 wireless card, and a bummer that I had to spend a little money on new hardware, but at this point I’m happy and have had no problems with the MWN-USB54G over the past couple of weeks of use.

Snag #2 – Problems initially getting Windows “activated” (registered)

Prior to installing Windows 7, my machine had a single 1.0 TB hard drive; for the purposes of this post, I’ll call this “drive 1.”  I had been running Vista Ultimate edition, for which a direct overinstall-type upgrade to Windows 7 Home Premium is not supported.  A “default” path to getting Window 7 installed in this case might have been to do the following:

  • Move my 100+ GB of documents (mostly photos and home videos of the family) to external storage
  • Format the hard drive
  • Install Windows 7
  • Recopy the 100+ GB of documents back onto the drive

However, I didn’t have a convenient way to copy the documents off the drive and then back on.  I decided instead to do the following:

  • Remove the hard drive, “drive 1,” from the machine
  • Add a new 500 GB hard drive to the machine, “drive 2,” to become the new C: drive
  • Install Windows 7
  • Add “drive 1” back to the machine – “drive 1” now becomes D:

This procedure successfully got me up and running with Windows 7, with Windows on my C: drive, and all of my documents on my D: drive.

This plan did hit one significant snag: During the initial install, when I was prompted for my CD-key, Windows wouldn’t accept it.  I double-checked the key I’d entered and verified it was correct, but entry of the key still failed with a generic error message.  Being a power user, I figured I could just clear the CD-key field and hit “Continue,” and Windows would let me go through with the install – and this did indeed turn out to be the case – but I might have been stuck if I didn’t know to do that.

Upon getting Windows up and running, I used the built-in “Activate Windows” utility (which I found easily simply by typing “Activate” into the Run/Search field on the Start menu – very cool!) to try and activate Windows using my CD-key once again.  This time I got a better error message instead of the generic one I was getting during initial setup: “The Software Licensing Service determined that this specified product key can only be used for upgrading, not clean installations.”

This made sense – Since I didn’t do an overinstall of Vista, and in fact had completely removed the drive with the Vista install on it from the machine completely while the initial Windows 7 install was running, of course Windows had no way of knowing that I legitimately was eligible for an “upgrade.”  Still, it would have been nice to have gotten a better error message during the initial setup.  Having realized the problem, I would have expected to have been offered some option to insert my old Vista DVD and/or enter my old Vista CD-key in order to prove to Windows 7 that I was, in fact, eligible for the upgrade, but there wasn’t any option like that.

Ultimately, I ended up using a workaround that I found on Paul Thurrott’s article Clean Install Windows 7 with Upgrade Media to successfully activate Windows.  I used “Method #2” from that page, and it worked fine for me!  (Thanks, Paul!)

Friday, October 09, 2009

Tip: Navigate “Back” like in a browser in Microsoft Word

Quick tip: In Microsoft Word, in a document with in-document hyperlinks, after navigating to another location in the document by clicking on a hyperlink (typically by holding Ctrl and clicking the link, as Word will prompt when the mouse cursor is hovered over a link), you can go back to where you were before in the document by using Alt+LeftArrow (hold down the Alt key and press the Left Arrow key) – similar to clicking on the Back button in a web browser.

Alt+RightArrow also works to go forward once again after using the Alt+LeftArrow shortcut to go back.

These are a good shortcuts to be aware of, since Word doesn’t by default show Back/Forward buttons in the toolbar like a browser does.  (This is the case in Word 2003 – I don’t have a copy of Word 2007 in front of me at the moment to check.)

In Word 2003, you can get Word to show Back/Forward buttons in the toolbar by making Word’s Web toolbar visible.  (Right-click a blank area of the toolbar at the top of the Word window, and select Web from the context menu that appears.)

The Alt+LeftArrow and Alt+RightArrow keyboard shortcuts to navigate Back or Forward respectively also work in most web browsers on Windows.